The Tokaj region

Tokaj is a very old wine region—the world’s first demarcated region, in fact, which was demarcated by a 1737 Royal Charter, but it is still in the process of re-introducing itself to the world since its rebirth in the early 1990s after Communism ended.

Tokaj is not a large region, but it is a complex one—full of fascinating history, unique wine styles, indigenous grapes, terroirs which vary widely from vineyard to vineyard, deep traditions, and a climate uniquely inducive to bringing on the botrytis (noble rot) which defines the most famous Tokaji wines.

Tokaj is the birthplace of one of the world’s oldest and best sweet wines, Tokaji Aszú. Though it’s a spectacularly complex wine, there’s so much more to this region than the Aszú, including plenty of pretty amazing dry white wines.

Fuleky Tokaj Winery

Füleky Tokaj Estate is a medium size winery in Bodrogkeresztúr village at foot of Tokaj Hill, on the bank of Bodrog River. It is not only a village of Tokaji wines but a favourite nesting place for storks. In fact one of the wine brands was named after a local stork named Fülöp. From the income, they are supporting maintenance of stork nests, creation of stork nest stands and electric insulation to protect birds.

Founded in 1998,the estate owns 25 hectares in the best vineyards in the Tokaj wine region, at eleven different locations, including Mestervölgy,and Úrágya.

The beautifully renovated and restored 18th-century Baroque Füleky mansion and the winery are in the centre of the village. Constructed from local stone, the modern winery was voted the Industrial Building of the Year in 2011. The winery was named after György Füleky, founder of the First Tokaj Wine Grower.

In a ferment about Furmint

…by comparing it with Riesling, its ability to span the gamut of bone dry to lusciously sweet while holding on to its razor-sharp acidity; or with Chenin, as full of flavour and structure at 11.5% as it is at 15.5%; or with Chardonnay, turning out stainless-steel-fermented, youthful crispness as easily as oak-fermented, barrel-aged richness.

… Furmint has a particularly sensitive ability to transmit terroir… Having said that, what Hungary does not need to do is prove that its dry Furmint, especially from the stony, volcanic soils of Tokaj…, is capable of producing fine, layered, astonishingly complex and age worthy whites. They speak for themselves.

…It is rarely found outside of Central Europe, with just 9 ha (22 acres) in eastern Austria, about 700 ha (1,700 acres) in Slovenia and 420 ha (1, 040 acres) in Croatia where, in the latter two countries it is known as Šipon

Tamlyn Currin, February 2019 

https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/in-a-ferment-about-furmint

 Füleky Dry Furmints

Tasting notes of Jancis Robinson (MW) following Furmint February London 2020

Füleky Furmint 2018 Tokaj         16 – Distinguished

Pure and fresh with an off-dry impression. Clean and easy with true varietal expression.Still quite fresh with true Furmint character and no heavy aged elements. For such a mature wine with real structure to it this is Very Good. 

https://www.ft.com/content/7c24c2f2-4d2a-11ea-95a0-43d18ec715f5?fbclid=IwAR3EEaHq5fNbHTEZdKBN-CO8s0OPlOYrqCA2dVJR-7FVnWhbKelH3yXly9c